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British retirees have taken over Cyprus this winter – here’s why I’ve joined them
I spent £3,000 on a month-long winter holiday in Cyprus, and with energy bills soaring in the UK, I had plenty of company
It’s mid-February and I’m basking in the hot sun by a sparkling pool. Opposite me, the long sandy beach is dotted with people sunbathing or swimming. I could be in the Caribbean, but I’m not – I’m in Cyprus, a four-hour flight from the UK. The island has the warmest winter weather in the Med, and more sunshine than Tunisia, according to the Met Office. “It’s been –1C with clouds like concrete for the past week,” a friend in the UK moaned over the phone.
In the Post Office’s recent Winter Travel Survey, 61 per cent of Britons said they hated the colder months, with complaints ranging from whopping heating bills to mental health issues caused by a lack of sunshine. Furthermore, 75 per cent said they’d be tempted to spend the season in warmer climes. Cyprus, where English is widely spoken, cars drive on the left and fish-and-chip shops are ubiquitous, was rated the third most sought-after destination (just behind Tenerife and Crete).
“Seventy per cent of our winter guests are British. It used to be 50 per cent, but since the Russians left the British have taken over,” Giorgos Protopapas general manager at adult-only resort IVI Mare in Paphos told me when I checked in.
Later that week, over drinks in the resort’s light-filled lobby bar, 69-year-old Alan Wilson, a retired accountant from Bristol, told me that he and his wife spend six weeks in an all-inclusive hotel every year. “Even though we’ve still got bills back home, we save a lot on heating, and most hotels offer pretty decent rates for long-stay guests like us. We do get a bit fed up with eating the same food though, so we go out to eat once or twice a week. That’s what’s good about Cyprus – lots of things are still open in winter.”
Paphos on the southwest coast seemed like a good place to start my own month-long stay. I split my time between here and Limassol – also favoured by Britons – to discover which was best for a winter escape.
Paphos: best for calm and culture
With its own airport, laid-back Paphos is a good option for a fly and flop with a dollop of culture. Winding coastal roads, fringed by date palms said to have grown from seeds dropped by the Crusaders, lead to a string of fascinating archaeological sites.
The city is also a hop-off point for visiting the Akamas peninsula, a remote nature reserve with dune-studded beaches and lost-in-the-past villages that’s best explored by boat or four-wheel drive.
“We love Paphos because it combines a relaxed lifestyle, plenty of sunshine, some interesting places to visit and cheap beer,” Londoners John and Bev Unwin told me.
Paphos has a quieter vibe than other resorts, which means that many tavernas and bars are closed in winter. For great budget-friendly meze, try Koutourou Ouzeri or Agora near the old town market. Cyprus is famed for sherry-like sweet dessert wine Commandaria. The oldest wine still in production, it was a favourite with Richard the Lionheart. Sample some at Kalamos Winery.
The verdict
Situated in the west, Paphos is cooler than the island’s other resorts – several times during my stay, Limassol’s high rises sparkled in hazy sunshine when it was raining in Paphos. Apart from the golden sands of Coral Bay, Paphos has mostly rock-strewn pebble beaches – as a keen winter swimmer this was a negative point for me. Once I managed to get in the water, however, it was surprisingly warm and very clean.
Being able to visit the resort’s world-class archaeological sites without the crowds was a major plus, but a lack of nightlife was a bit of a downer.
Limassol: best for fun and food
“Limassol is less touristy – it’s a place where companies have their offices and where people live, so things stay open all year round,” Giorgos Protopapas, who was born there, told me. As I arrived at sunset – with orange sunlight bouncing off high-rise buildings, the cityscape reminded me of Houston.
“We have cinemas, art galleries, and even concert halls here – this is the most cosmopolitan city in Cyprus,” waiter Andreas told me later as I devoured ravioli sprinkled with fresh truffle at gourmet restaurant Dionysus Mansion.
Half way between Paphos in the west and the party town of Ayia Napa in the east, Limassol also makes a good base for exploring the ancient temples, beautifully conserved amphitheatre and Roman mosaics of Kourion. It is also just over an hour’s drive from the Troodos mountain villages. Kalopanayiotis, famed for its mineral-rich hot springs, and Lefkara, renowned for traditional handicrafts, are within easy reach; as is Troodos Ski Centre, on the slopes of Mount Olympus.
With several Michelin-starred restaurants, including an outpost of London’s Ristorante Locatelli, Limassol wins hands down when it comes to dining options. It doesn’t have to be expensive either; in the labyrinth streets of Limassol’s old town budget-friendly tavernas abound. For big portions of traditional treats, ranging from spicy grilled sausage shaftalia to taro root kolokasi, try Aris Tavern or I Folia Tou Koukou. From traditional music at Notes Live Cyprus to old-school disco at Metropole Retro Club and opera at the Rialto, it’s also the best bet for nightlife.
The verdict
Over the past decade countless foreign businesses have moved to Limassol, resulting in a building boom and higher prices – in restaurants, bars and shops – than elsewhere on the island. Limassol does have glorious golden sand beaches, but the quality of water is not always of the best. When it comes to nightlife and restaurants, however, Limassol earns top marks.
How much did I spend?
Cyprus is definitely more expensive than many other popular winter-stay destinations. It’s something to consider, even if you’re staying in an all-inclusive resort, as you’ll want to eat out from time to time. A three-course meal for two people in Paphos will set you back around €60; in Limassol around €70.
The local Keo lager, priced at around €3 on most menus, goes well with local meze – a bottle in the local supermarket costs €1.60. Cypriot wine is excellent – at around €7 a bottle it’s good value, too. Fruit and vegetables are much cheaper than in the UK and the quality is superb, with freshly squeezed juice (peach; nectarine; grapefruit) on sale in supermarkets for as little as €1 per litre. Filling street-food snacks cost a couple of euros each.
At €1.29 a litre petrol is slightly cheaper than in the UK; as is car hire. Entry to most archaeological sites costs a couple of euros – it’s half price or free if you’re under 12 or over 65.
What to book
For five-star luxury
A 28-night stay in a Junior Suite with whirlpool at Ivi Mare Paphos, on an all-inclusive basis with Jet2holidays, costs £5,988pp including flights from Stansted departing on March 5.
A 28-night stay in a suite at Royal Apollonia Limassol on an all-inclusive basis with Jet2holidays costs £3,667pp including flights from Stansted departing on March 5. For a 10 per cent discount (for either resort) book directly with Louis Hotels.
On a budget
A 28-night stay in a studio at Hylati Tourist Village Pissouri, on an all-inclusive basis with easyJet Holidays, costs £1,569pp including flights from Stansted departing on March 2.