Entering the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro, the taxi driver’s warning is stark: “Some of the favelas are so dangerous, even the police won’t go there.”
His words hang in the air, despite a glittering welcome from a city enjoying the last hoorahs of Carnival. On Copacabana, even the bin men are dancing.
But Rio is a city of contrasts – and danger is never far away.
This proves little obstacle to an army of community health agents, who are determined to access all areas.
The workers are central to the Family Health Strategy devised in Brazil in the 1990s, which aimed to bring care out of hospitals into communities and was created as part of a response to the first major outbreak of cholera in a century.
Under the model, the agents – who receive training but have no minimum qualifications – go from door to door, providing a listening ear as well as health advice, education and links to health services.
The strategy has been linked to dramatic improvements in health outcomes – including a 34 per cent drop in deaths from heart problems in areas with a full roll-out of the scheme.
Some agents provide help on the spot, dispensing vaccinations, prescriptions and blood pressure checks. In other cases they help the vulnerable to navigate health systems, for example by fixing up appointments with hospital specialists, GPs and dentists.
They also provide something less tangible.
In a country battling a host of social ills, in particular drugs, crime and unemployment, the agents take on a deeper long-term role, learning the secrets that divide families and helping some of the most vulnerable to get back on their feet.
Trust is key to the success of the scheme, especially in areas where a knock on the door can prove unwelcome.
So, crucially, a community health agent (Agente Comunitario de Saude) is always recruited from the areas they serve, even living on the very street where they work.
The programme, which began in the most deprived areas, has been rolled out across 75 per cent of Brazil – even in the heart of the Amazon.
It is a model which is attracting the interest of other countries – including Britain – which are struggling to cope with an inexorable rise in demand for healthcare services, leaving hospitals overwhelmed.